Thursday, May 21, 2015

About Aquaponics

System - Plants - Fish - Water.....Aquaponics System

Aquaponics is a sustainable food production system that combines a traditional aquaculture (raising aquatic animals such as  fish, crayfish or prawns in tanks) with hydroponics (cultivating plants in water) in a symbiotic environment. In the aquaculture, effluents accumulate in the water, increasing toxicity for the fish. This water is led to a hydroponic system where the by-products from the aquaculture are filtered out by the plants as vital nutrients, after which the cleansed water is recirculated back to the animals. The term aquaponics is a portmanteau of the terms aquaculture and hydroponic. Aquaponic systems vary in size from small indoor or outdoor units to large commercial units, using the same technology. The systems usually contain fresh water, but salt water systems are plausible depending on the type of aquatic animal and which plants.

Rush CreekGet The Most Out Of Your Aquaponics System that:

  • relies on the natural balance that nature provides;
  • can produce fish, vegetables, herbs, fruit and flowers;
  • uses the least amount of water for any growing system; and
  • is free from dangerous pesticides and chemical fertilizers.
Shop with ease at the Aquaponics Shop Online specialising in Large Backyard to Commerical Aquaponic Systems.

Aquaponics Shelters

Rush CreekAquaponics Shop has worked closely with our suppliers to provide the worlds first dedicated Aquaponic Shelters.  These aquaponics shelters are ideal for every aquaponic purpose from the small back yard to the large commercial system. While we show here the most popular three systems we can design them to any size for your specific purpose!

Aquaponics Systems

Rush CreekAquaponics Shop has worked closely with our suppliers to provide the most technical designed Aquaponic Systems. Aquaponics consists of two main parts, with the aquaculture part for raising aquatic animals and the hydroponics part for growing plants. Our Aquaponic Systems are the best and latest designs.

Aquaponics Fish

Choosing the type of fish for your aquaponic system has many determining factors. What you want out of your system, your climate and available supplies are probably the factors you would need to consider first. For your Aquaponics Fish you can use goldfish if you do not want to have edible fish, or outside of Australia Tilipia or catfish. Within Australia maybe trout in the cooler climate or barramundi in the warmer months. Silver Perch is the ideal aquaponics fish for an aquaponic system as it is an all year round fish. Check what is available at what time of the year to make sure you can get supplies when required.

 

Aquaponics Plants

There have been over 300 different plants that have been tested that will be happy in an aquaponic system. The major group that will not grow in an aquaponic system are root vegetables. The list of Aquaponics Plants you can grow in an aquaponics system is too long to write and is dependent on your location. If it is an above ground plant that grows well in your area and does not mind getting its roots wet then you should give it a go.Herbs and green leafy vegetables are the most common aquaponic plants grown in an aquaponics system. Different areas can also produce different results. Climate is another important factor as is whether your system is open to the elements or in a shelter.
Photos are of aquaponic systems supplied/built and/or maintained by Martin and Kerri

Aquaponics 101


Aquaponics

Why Aquaponics?

Aquaponics is the most exciting next step in Agriculture. It holds the promise of a localized food system, a new economy and the smallest environmental impact.
Of all of the food production methods, Aquaponics has the highest yields and uses the least amount of water with no waste. It is the most feasible method of urban food production and can exceeds organic standards.
While there are many approaches to Aquaponics that have varying benefits depending on the application (i.e. home scale vs. commercial scale), a viable path exists for all applications when designed and implemented well.

Why Urban Farming?

Food is the common thread that can help mitigate many of the world’s problems including climate change, peak oil, and chronic disease. On the path towards building resilient communities, nothing is more important than establishing sustainable food production facilities that are easily accessible.

Thursday, March 19, 2015

Nitrifying Bacteria Facts

One of the most important, and least understood, aspects of successful aquarium keeping is biological filtration and its function in the nitrogen cycle. Traditionally, novice aquarists become disillusioned at the frequently experienced high death rates of their aquatic pets after setting up a new aquarium. Statistically, as much as 60% of the fish sold for a new aquarium will die within the first 30 days. 2 out of every 3 new aquarists abandon the hobby within the first year.

Known as "New Tank Syndrome" these fish are poisoned by high levels of ammonia (NH3) that is produced by the bacterial mineralization of fish wastes, excess food, and the decomposition of animal and plant tissues. Additional ammonia is excreted directly into the water by the fish themselves. The effects of ammonia poisoning in fish are well documented. These effects include: extensive damage to tissues, especially the gills and kidney; physiological imbalances; impaired growth; decreased resistance to disease, and; death.

Nitrite poisoning inhibits the uptake of oxygen by red blood cells. Known as brown blood disease, or methemoglobinemia, the hemoglobin in red blood cells is converted to methemoglobin. This problem is much more severe in fresh water fish than in marine organisms. The presence of chloride ions (CL-) appears to inhibit the accumulation of nitrite in the blood stream.

The successful aquarist realizes the importance of establishing the nitrogen cycle quickly and with minimal stress on the aquarium’s inhabitants. Aquarium filtration has advanced from the old box filters filled with charcoal and glass wool to undergravel filters, then trickle filters, and most recently - fluidized bed filters. Every advance has been to improve upon the effectiveness of biological filtration which in turn increases the efficiency of the nitrogen cycle. The availability of advanced high-tech filtration systems has lent added importance to the understanding of basic aquatic chemistry.

Nitrifying bacteria are classified as obligate chemolithotrophs. This simply means that they must use inorganic salts as an energy source and generally cannot utilize organic materials. They must oxidize ammonia and nitrites for their energy needs and fix inorganic carbon dioxide (CO2) to fulfill their carbon requirements. They are largely non-motile and must colonize a surface (gravel, sand, synthetic biomedia, etc.) for optimum growth. They secrete a sticky slime matrix which they use to attach themselves.

Species of Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter are gram negative, mostly rod-shaped, microbes ranging between 0.6-4.0 microns in length. They are obligate aerobes and cannot multiply or convert ammonia or nitrites in the absence of oxygen.

Nitrifying bacteria have long generation times due to the low energy yield from their oxidation reactions. Since little energy is produced from these reactions they have evolved to become extremely efficient at converting ammonia and nitrite. Scientific studies have shown that Nitrosomonas bacterium are so efficient that a single cell can convert ammonia at a rate that would require up to one million heterotrophs to accomplish. Most of their energy production (80%) is devoted to fixing CO2 via the Calvin cycle and little energy remains for growth and reproduction. As a consequence, they have a very slow reproductive rate.

Nitrifying bacteria reproduce by binary division. Under optimal conditions, Nitrosomonas may double every 7 hours and Nitrobacter every 13 hours. More realistically, they will double every 15-20 hours. This is an extremely long time considering that heterotrophic bacteria can double in as short a time as 20 minutes. In the time that it takes a single Nitrosomonas cell to double in population, a single E. Coli bacterium would have produced a population exceeding 35 trillion cells.

None of the Nitrobacteraceae are able to form spores. They have a complex cytomembrane (cell wall) that is surrounded by a slime matrix. All species have limited tolerance ranges and are individually sensitive to pH, dissolved oxygen levels, salt, temperature, and inhibitory chemicals. Unlike species of heterotrophic bacteria, they cannot survive any drying process without killing the organism. In water, they can survive short periods of adverse conditions by utilizing stored materials within the cell. When these materials are depleted, the bacteria die.

Biological Data

There are several species of Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria and many strains among those species. Most of this information can be applied to species of Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter in general., however, each strain may have specific tolerances to environmental factors and nutriment preferences not shared by other, very closely related, strains. The information presented here applies specifically to those strains being cultivated by Fritz Industries, Inc.

Temperature

The temperature for optimum growth of nitrifying bacteria is between 77-86° F (25-30° C).

Growth rate is decreased by 50% at 64° F (18° C).

Growth rate is decreased by 75% at 46-50° F.

No activity will occur at 39° F (4° C)

Nitrifying bacteria will die at 32° F (0° C).

Nitrifying bacteria will die at 120° F (49° C)

Nitrobacter is less tolerant of low temperatures than Nitrosomonas. In cold water systems, care must be taken to monitor the accumulation of nitrites.

pH

The optimum pH range for Nitrosomonas is between 7.8-8.0.

The optimum pH range for Nitrobacter is between 7.3-7.5

Nitrobacter will grow more slowly at the high pH levels typical of marine aquaria and preferred by African Rift Lake Cichlids. Initial high nitrite concentrations may exist. At pH levels below 7.0, Nitrosomonas will grow more slowly and increases in ammonia may become evident. Nitrosomonas growth is inhibited at a pH of 6.5. All nitrification is inhibited if the pH drops to 6.0 or less. Care must be taken to monitor ammonia if the pH begins to drop close to 6.5. At this pH almost all of the ammonia present in the water will be in the mildly toxic, ionized NH3+ state.

Dissolved Oxygen

Maximum nitrification rates will exist if dissolved oxygen (DO) levels exceed 80% saturation. Nitrification will not occur if DO concentrations drop to 2.0 mg/l (ppm) or less. Nitrobacter is more strongly affected by low DO than NITROSOMONAS.



Micronutrients

All species of nitrifying bacteria require a number of micronutrients. Most important among these is the need for phosphorus for ATP (Adenosine Tri-Phosphate) production. The conversion of ATP provides energy for cellular functions. Phosphorus is normally available to cells in the form of phosphates (PO4). Nitrobacter, especially, is unable to oxidize nitrite to nitrate in the absence of phosphates.

Sufficient phosphates are normally present in regular drinking water. During certain periods of the year, the amount of phosphates may be very low. A phenomenon known as "Phosphate Block" may occur. If all the above described parameters are within the optimum ranges for the bacteria and nitrite levels continue to escalate without production of nitrate, then phosphate block may be occurring. In recent years, with the advent of phosphate-free synthetic sea salt mixes, this problem has become prevalent among marine aquarists when establishing a new tank.

Fortunately, phosphate block is easy to remedy. A source of phosphate needs to be added to the aquarium. Phosphoric Acid is recommended as being simplest to use and dose, however, either mono-sodium phosphate or di-sodium phosphate may be substituted. Fritz PH LOWER contains 31% phosphoric acid. A one time application of 1 drop per 4 gallons of water is all that is necessary to activate the Nitrobacter. This small dosage of PH LOWER will not affect the pH or alkalinity of marine aquaria.

Minimal levels of other essential micronutrients is often not a problem as they are available in our drinking water supplies. The increasing popularity of high-tech water filters for deionizing, distilling, and reverse osmosis (hyper-filtration) produce water that is stripped of these nutrients. While these filters are generally excellent for producing high purity water, this water will also be inhibitory to nitrifying bacteria. The serious aquarist must replenish the basic salts necessary to the survival of the aquarium’s inhabitants. These salts, however, usually lack these critical micronutrients.

Nutriment

All species of Nitrosomonas use ammonia (NH3) as an energy source during its conversion to nitrite (NO2). Ammonia is first converted (hydrolyzed) to an amine (NH2) compound then oxidized to nitrite. This conversion process allows Nitrosomonas to utilize a few simple amine compounds such as those formed by the conversion of ammonia by chemical ammonia removers.

A few strains of Nitrosomonas are also capable of utilizing urea as an energy source.

All species of Nitrobacter use nitrites for their energy source in oxidizing them to nitrate (NO3).

Color and Smell

The cells of nitrifying bacteria are reddish (Nitrosomonas) to brownish (Nitrobacter) in color.


Light

Nitrifying bacteria are photosensitive, especially to blue and ultraviolet light. After they have colonized a surface this light poses no problem. During the first 3 or 4 days many of the cells may be suspended in the water column. Specialized bulbs in reef aquaria that emit UV or near UV light should remain off during this time. Regular aquarium lighting has no appreciable negative effect.

Chlorine and Chloramines

Before adding bacteria or fish to any aquarium or system, all chlorine must be completely neutralized. Residual chlorine or chloramines will kill Fritz-Zyme bacteria and fish.

Most US cities now treat their drinking water with chloramines. Chloramines are more stable than chlorine. It is advisable to test for chlorine with an inexpensive test kit. If you are unsure whether your water has been treated with chloramine, test for ammonia after neutralizing the chlorine. You can also call your local water treatment facility.

The type of chloramines formed is dependent on pH. Most of it exists as either monochloramine (NH2Cl) or dichloramine (NHCl2). They are made by adding ammonia to chlorinated water. Commercial chlorine reducing chemicals, such as sodium thiosulfate (Na2S2O2) break the chlorine:ammonia bond. Chlorine (Cl) is reduced to harmless chloride (Cl- ) ion. Since dichloramine has two chlorine molecules, a double dose of a chlorine remover, such as sodium thiosulfate, is recommended.

Each molecule of chloramine that is reduced will produce one molecule of ammonia. If the chloramine concentration is 2 ppm then your aquarium or system will start out with 2 ppm of ammonia. Chlorine Remover will reduce up to 2 ppm of chlorine at recommended dosages. During the warmer months chlorine levels may exceed 2 ppm. A double dose would be required to effectively eliminate the excess chlorine.

The Role of Bacteria in Aquaponics

An aquaponics set-up requires beneficial bacteria in order for fish and plants to flourish. Plants feed off nutrients supplied by fish refuse and decomposed fish food. Before a plant can absorb these nutrients, they must be converted into nitrates. Two types of bacteria work hand-in-hand to achieve this process. They are Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter.

Bacteria Growth

Bacteria thrives in the substrate, or rocks, that are usually on the bottom of fish tanks. Rocks are also used as a medium in which to grow aquatic plants. Fish refuse and excess food settles at the bottom of the tank, and the bacteria work on this waste.

Ammonia and Nitrosomonas

Excess ammonia is produced in water when there is an overload of fish and food waste. Ammonia must be removed to keep fish at optimum health. Nitrosomonas bacteria requires ammonia to survive. Their roles is to convert the ammonia to Nitrites. Excessive nitrites can be fatal to fish. To safeguard fish, and to aid in aquatic or aquaponic plant growth, nitrites must be then be converted to nitrates.

Nitrates and Nitrobacter

Nitrobacter bacteria feeds off nitrites. Once nitrites are consumed by nitrobacter, the nitrites are converted to nitrates. Plants rapidly grow when they are absorbing nitrates. The process of converting fish waste to ammonia, then nitrites, and finally nitrates; is called the nitrogen cycle.

How Aquaponics Works

Aquaponic CropsAquaponics is the ideal answer to a fish farmer’s problem of disposing of nutrient rich water and a hydroponic grower's need for nutrient rich water. Essentially, aquaponics mimics every natural waterway on earth. It is used to grow food crops in a concentrated, yet sustainable manner.
The main input to an aquaponic system is fish food. The fish eat the food and excrete waste. More than 50% of the waste produced by fish is in the form of ammonia secreted in the urine and, in small quantities, through the gills. The remainder of the waste, excreted as fecal matter,

undergoes a process called mineralization which occurs when heterotrophic bacteria consume fish waste, decaying plant matter and un-eaten food, converting all three to ammonia and other compounds. In sufficient quantities ammonia is toxic to plants and fish.
Nitrifying bacteria, which naturally live in the soil, water and air, convert ammonia first to nitrite and then to nitrate
 which plants consume. In an aquaponic system the heterotrophic and nitrifying bacteria will attach to the tank walls, underside of the rafts, organic matter, the growing medium (if used) and in the water column. The beneficial bacteria discussed here are natural and will inhabit an aquaponic system as soon as ammonia and nitrite are present.
Tilapia grown in aquaponics
Essentially, you have three crops to keep alive in aquaponcis - the fish, the plants and the beneficial bacteria. These three living entities each rely on the other to live. The bacteria consume the fish waste keeping the water clean for the fish. In the process, the bacteria provide the plants with a usable form of nutrients. In removing these nutrients through plant growth, the plants help to clean the water the fish live in.
Aquaponics is a very efficient method of growing food that uses a minimum of water and space and utilizes waste, resulting in an end product of organic, healthful fish and vegetables. From a nutritional standpoint, aquaponics provides food in the form of both protein (from the fish) and vegetables.

The Nitrogen Cycle


the nitrogen fixing bacteriaNitrogen is a fundamental element that is necessary for all forms of life on Earth. Nitrogen is an important component in both plant and animal cells. Organisms need nitrogen to produce proteins, nucleic acids, and amino acids. Although Nitrogen gas (N2) is roughly 78% of the earth’s atmosphere, it is unusable in this form. The majority of organisms on earth can only use nitrogen when it is ‘fixed’ – combined with carbon, hydrogen or oxygen.





The nitrogen cycle is the process by which microorganisms convert the nitrogen in the air and organic compounds (such as within soil) into a usable form.
The Nitrogen cycle is the most significant process within aquaponics. It is responsible for the conversion of fish waste into nutrients for the plants. Without this process, the water quality would deteriorate rapidly and become toxic to both the fish and plants in the system. The water therefore in aquaponics does not need to be treated chemically to make it ‘safe’ nor does it have to be replaced. In aquaponics, a system is said to have ‘cycled’ when there are sufficient quantities of bacteria to convert all the ammonia into an accessible form of nitrogen for the plants. The bacteria will arrive naturally to a system and colonize the water column and biofilter (usually clay pebbles, gravel or netting).

The bacteria are the microscopic organisms that are involved in the conversion of fish waste into nutrients for the plants. If you are considering trying your hand at aquaponics it is important to understand how to create a healthy environment for the bacteria that will allow them to thrive within the system. A healthy colony of bacteria will determine your success with an aquaponics system. A mature system will contain enough bacteria to break down and convert all the fish waste into nutrients for the plants.
The following factors outline how this process occurs within the aquaponics system. The fish in the tank are fed, they digest and break down the food and produce waste. Fish excrete ammonia through urine, faeces (approx 17%) and their gills (approx 80%). The nitrification cycle is the process by which the ammonia produced by the fish is converted by one type of bacteria to nitrite and then by another type of bacteria to nitrate (the most plant-accessible form of Nitrogen in the cycle – and safest for the fish).
The two types of bacteria that break down ammonia (NH3) and nitrite (NO2) are:
- Nitrosomonas sp
- Nitrobacter sp
The Nitrosomonas bacteria convert the ammonia into nitrite and then the Nitrobacter bacteria converts the nitrite into nitrate (NO3). Nitrosomonas sp. – This bacterium takes in ammonia and converts it to nitrite. Nitrite is the less poisonous compound for the fish than ammonia would be. However, high levels of nitrite will prevent the fish from taking up oxygen and will cause damage to their gills.
Nitrobacter sp. is the next bacterium in the cycle and it consumes nitrite and converts it to nitrate. Nitrate is a very accessible nutrient source for plants. Fish will also tolerate a much higher level of nitrate than they will ammonia or nitrite. When all these bacteria are found in sufficient numbers in order to convert all of the ammonia and nitrite being produced in a system, it is said to have ‘cycled’. This process generally takes about a month however it can happen much quicker or much slower depending on external environmental conditions.

Starting Up (Cycling) an Aquaponics System Using Fish

If you have been following this series on how to build a media based aquaponics system, you now have your aquaponics fish tank and grow bed interconnected by flood and drain plumbing which is ready to be powered by a pump. Your grow bed is filled with the grow media and the fish tank is full of de-chlorinated water. Now it’s time to move into the living elements of your system, starting with establishing the nitrifying bacteria.
Bacteria are the magic that takes the unusable aquaponics fish waste and creates a near perfect plant fertilizer. In this article and the next, we will demystify the process of establishing a beneficial bacteria colony in your aquaponics system. This process is often called system “cycling”. Today I’ll talk about cycling using fish and next month I’ll go into how to cycle without fish. By the end of these two articles, you will fully understand what you MUST do to initiate cycling and to ensure its success. You will also understand what you CAN do to both make the process less stressful for your fish and your plants, and to speed up the process.

What is Cycling?

Cycling starts when you (or your fish) first add ammonia to your system. Ammonia (chemical formula NH3) is a compound made of nitrogen and hydrogen. It can come either from your fish or from other sources that we will discuss next month. Ammonia is toxic to fish (more on this later) and will soon kill them unless it is either diluted to a non-toxic level or converted into a less toxic form of nitrogen. Unfortunately, nitrogen as found in ammonia is not readily taken up by plants, so no matter how high the ammonia levels get in your fish tank, your plants will not be getting much nutrition from it.
Aquaponics CycingThe good news is that ammonia attracts nitrosomonas, the first of the two nitrifying bacteria that will populate your system. The nitrosomonas convert the ammonia into nitrites (NO2). This is a necessary step in the cycling process; however, nitrites are even more toxic than ammonia! But there is good news because the presence of nitrites attracts the bacteria we are truly after nitrospira. Nitrospira convert the nitrites into nitrates, which are generally harmless to the fish and excellent food for your plants.
Once you detect nitrates in your water and the ammonia and nitrite concentrations have both dropped to .5 or lower your system will be fully cycled and aquaponics will have officially begun!

The Importance Of Testing Tools

IMG_0388You must have some way of telling where you are in the cycling process, typically a four to six week endeavor. Specifically, you must monitor ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels as well as pH so that you know that all these elements are in range. If they are not, you may need to take corrective action. This is also the only way that you will know when you are fully cycled and ready to add more fish (or your first fish if you have been cycling with no fish at all). Plus, watching the daily progress of the cycling process is fascinating and something you can only see through the lens of a test kit. By the way, once you reach the point that your system is fully cycled, you will need to do much less monitoring than during the cycling process. So get through the cycling process and look forward to reaping the fruits (or should we say the fish) of your labor.
To do their testing, most aquaponic gardeners use a product by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Inc. called the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. This kit is easy to use, is inexpensive, and is designed for monitoring the cycling process in fish systems.
You will also need a submersible thermometer to measure your water temperature. Temperature affects both the cycling rate and the health of your fish and plants once you are up and running. See more on this below.

Cycling with Fish

Ammonia (NH3) is the catalyst that starts the cycling process. You must have some means to feed ammonia into the system so that you attract the bacteria that are at the heart of aquaponics.
There are two ways to introduce ammonia into your system with fish and without (fishless). Today we will talk about cycling with fish, and tackle fish-less cycling in the next article.

The Ammonia (NH3)

I used fish to cycle my first aquaponics system and I suspect this is how most people approach cycling. In some ways it is the easier of the two methods because there are no extra inputs, but it is definitely the more stressful of the two options because live critters are involved.
The idea is to add fish on day one and hope that they live through the cycling process. The challenge is to get the system cycled fast enough that the ammonia concentration from the fish waste drops to a non-toxic level before the fish succumb to exposure to their own waste. I strongly recommend that you don’t stock to your tank’s mature capacity (1 lb of fish per 5 – 10 gallons of water) but to less than half that. You might also want to consider these fish as “sacrificial” and perhaps use goldfish from the pet store, which are fairly tolerant of ammonia, rather than the tilapia with which you may ultimately envision stocking your tank. Also, do not feed these fish more than once a day and only feed them a small amount even then.
Fish excrete ammonia through their gills as a bi-product of their respiratory process. Without dilution, removal or conversion to a less toxic form of nitrogen, the ammonia will build up in the fish tank and eventually kill the fish. In addition, ammonia (NH3) continually changes to ammonium (NH4+) and vice versa, with the relative concentrations of each depending on the water’s temperature and pH. Ammonia is extremely toxic to fish; ammonium is relatively harmless. At higher temperatures and pH, more of the nitrogen is in the toxic ammonia form than at lower pH.
Standard test kits measure total ammonia (ammonia plus ammonium) without distinguishing between the two forms. The following chart gives the maximum long-term level of ammonia in mg/L (ppm) that can be considered safe at a given temperature and pH.
Water Temperature
pH 20C (68F) 25C (77F)
6.5 15.4 ppm 11.1 ppm
7.0 5.0 3.6
7.5 1.6 1.2
8.0 0.5 0.4
8.5 0.2 0.1
You will need to monitor your tank water daily during cycling for elevated ammonia levels. If those levels exceed the levels on the chart above you should dilute through a water exchange by pumping out up to 1/3 of your tank’s water and replacing it with fresh, de-chlorinated water.

Adjusting pH

During cycling, especially with fish, you should try and keep your pH between 6.0 and 7.0. The range does not go below 6.0 because most fish prefer slightly alkaline water and few are happy below 6.0. The range does not go above 7.0 because of the ammonia toxicity issue described above (higher pH readings suggest higher ammonia concentrations). So how do you keep pH in such a tight range?
The first rule is: Whatever you do to adjust pH in aquaponics – Do it slowly! Fast, large pH swings are very stressful on fish and will be much more of a problem than having pH that is out of range. Target shifting your pH reading no more than .2 per day and you should be fine.
The safest way to do this is to use our AquaDown pH Lowering Solution. Raise pH either by using our AquaUp pH Raising Kit or by alternating alternatively use calcium hydroxide – also known as “hydrated lime” or “builder’s lime” with potassium carbonate (or bicarbonate) or potassium hydroxide (“pearlash” or “potash”). Don’t use citric acid as it is anti-bacterial!
Typically, you will be trying to keep pH down during cycling, and then once your system is cycled you will probably notice that the pH will fall and you will then need to switch to keeping it up. You will probably find that it is easier to increase pH than it is to decrease it. The ideal pH of a mature aquaponics system is 6.8 – 7.0. This is a compromise between what the plants prefer, i.e. a slightly acidic environment of 5.5 – 6.5, and what the fish prefer, i.e. a slightly alkaline environment as we discussed before.

The Nitrite (NO2)

Nitrite is to fish like carbon monoxide is to air breathers. The nitrite will bind with the blood in place of oxygen and keep the fish from getting the oxygen it needs. Fish poisoned with nitrites die of what is called “brown blood disease”. If the nitrite levels in your tank rise above 10 ppm while you are cycling your system with fish, you should do a water exchange as discussed above, but you may also want to add salt to the system in order to further protect the health of the fish.
Do this by adding salt to the system to at least 1 part per thousand (1 kg of salt per 1000 liters of water) using non-Iodized salt. Avoid table salt since it contains potentially harmful anti-caking agents. You can use cheap pool salt or water softener salt available at the grocery or hardware store, but the best product is salt specifically formulated for fish. Make sure to dissolve it completely in a bucket of water before adding it to the fish tank since un-dissolved salt crystals on the bottom of a fish tank can burn a fish that rests against them. Stop feeding your fish until the nitrite levels decline below 1.0 and aerate as much as possible.
How might salt (sodium chloride) help? Sodium Chloride helps mitigate nitrites because the chloride ions bind with the nitrites and thereby help keep some of the nitrite out of your fish.

Adding Plants

seed starting plugI recommend adding plants to your new aquaponic system as soon as you start cycling. Plants can take up nitrogen in all stages of the cycling process to varying degrees; from ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, but they will be happiest when cycling is complete and the bacteria are fully established because so many more nutrients become available at this stage.
When plants are first transplanted, they focus on establishing their root system in their new environment. You may initially see some signs of stress – yellowing and/or dropped leaves – and you will probably not see any new growth for a few weeks. This is fine. Adding plants to your system right away lets them go through the rooting process early on and readies them to start removing the nitrogen-based fish waste from your aquaponics system as soon as possible.
I recommend you use some Maxicrop to get your plants off to a good start during cycling. Maxicrop is derived from Norwegian seaweed, is organic and is used primarily as a growth stimulant, especially to enhance plant root development. It is extremely effective at giving plants a “leg up” after being transplanted into your new aquaponics system, is absolutely harmless to the fish, and probably beneficial for the bacteria. You can find Maxicrop in garden centers, hydroponic stores, and online in both liquid and dry form.
While there are no hard and fast rules about how much Maxicrop to add during cycling, I recommend about a quart of the liquid product for every 250 gallons of water. It will turn your water almost black but don’t worry; this will clear up after a week or so.

Speeding Up the Process

Cycling is in some sense akin to any hunting activity that uses a lure. We start by putting out the ammonia. This attracts the nitrosomonas bacteria which in-turn produces nitrites. The nitrites attract the nitrosprira bacteria which produce the nitrates that are harmless to the fish and delicious to the plants. These two beneficial nitrifying bacteria are naturally present in the environment.
As I stated earlier, this process will take four to six weeks if done with fish, or as little as ten days to three weeks if done fishless. But what if you could speed that up significantly? What if instead of waiting for the bacteria to show up to the party, they actually are part of the party to begin with? You can do this by introducing nitrifying bacteria into your aquaponics system.

Adding Bacteria

While there are many ways to do this, they all boil down to two basic strategies: use bacteria from an existing aquaculture or aquaponics operation or from a near-by pond or instead, purchase bacteria from a commercial source.
Good sources of beneficial bacteria from existing systems are ranked here, leading with the best:
  • Media from an existing aquaponics system
  • Our Microbe-Lift Nitrifying Bacteria product
  • Filter material (floss, sponge, biowheel, etc.) from an established, disease-free aquarium.
  • Gravel from an established, disease-free tank. (Many local pet and aquarium stores will give this away if asked.)
  • Other ornaments (driftwood, rocks, etc.) from an established aquarium.
  • Squeezings from a filter sponge (any pet and aquarium store might be willing to do this…)
  • Rocks from a backyard pond with fish in it

Managing Water Temperature

Water temperature also has a dramatic effect on the speed of cycling. Their optimal temperature is between 77-86° F (25-30°C). At 64°F (18°C) their growth rates is decreased by 50%. At 46-50ºF (8-10°C) it decreases by 75%, and stops all together at 39°F (4°C). It will die off at or below 32ºF (0°C) and at or above 120°F (49°C).

Cycling with Fish – Conclusion

While cycling with fish is the most widespread and straightforward of the cycling techniques, it is stressful on your fish and therefore somewhat stressful for you. But it certainly works. Next month we’ll go over another technique called Fishless cycling that uses pure ammonia to cycle your system.
Either way, it’s time go get up and grow!