BACTERIA AND PLANT

Bacteria

The ammonia excreted from the fish-waste and leftover fish-feed is toxic to fish in high quantities. Luckily Mother Nature has provided us with a natural method for converting ammonia into plant food. This can only occur thanks to two types of the bacteria (nitrosomonas and nitrospira) that are essential to the nitrogen cycle. These bacteria are otherwise referred to as the bio-filter,  and this is where the magic in an aquaponic system takes place.

For more information on the nitrogen cycle see the Aquaponics Science  page

Like any organism nitrifying bacteria thrive in optimum conditions. Therefore it is essential to understand what these conditions are and how they affect the health of your bio-filter.

The table below shows the optimum conditions for nitrifying bacteria, plants and fish.

 

Managing all three requirements in an aquaponics system is a balancing act. Ideally you will need a PH of 7 as a compromise between the fish, plants and bacteria requirements. Moreover, it will be essential to maintain the optimum temperature for your bio-filter otherwise the bacteria will become less efficient.

Plants

An aquaponic system provides an excellent growing environment for plants. It supplies plants with a constant source of nutrient rich water and a good supply of oxygen to the roots. All of which means you don’t have to water, feed or even weed your plants as you would have to for soil grown plants!

A variety of plants can be grown in an aquaponic system. Everything from flowers, to herbs, vegetables, fruits and even some root vegetables.

Fast growing plants like leafy vegetables and herbs particularly suit this type of system. Fruiting plants such as chilli, strawberries, tomatoes etc can also be grown, but they require a greater nutrient supply compared to leafy vegetables. This is easily achieved in established aquaponic systems with a slightly higher fish stocking density.

Fish and bacteria prefer more PH neutral conditions; therefore plants outside of this range do not grow well. Blueberries and raspberries, which like acid soils ranging from a PH of 4.5 to 6.2 are one of the few examples of plants that don’t suit aquaponics.

The main ‘problems’ with small-scale Aquaponics are only problems if you are afraid of a little maintenance. This can all be greatly reduced with the clever use of automation and monitoring technologies that are currently being developed by the industry leaders of indoor growing (cough). Nonetheless, you should be aware of what you are getting into. Here are my top seven unexpected challenges with small-scale Aquaponics. - See more at: http://blog.grovelabs.io/designing-ecosystems/aquaponics-designing-ecosystems/7-challenges-small-scale-aquaponics-systems/#sthash.QN4Hg6C5.dpuf

The main ‘problems’ with small-scale Aquaponics are only problems if you are afraid of a little maintenance. This can all be greatly reduced with the clever use of automation and monitoring technologies that are currently being developed by the industry leaders of indoor growing (cough). Nonetheless, you should be aware of what you are getting into. Here are my top seven unexpected challenges with small-scale Aquaponics.
1.   pH Drops Faster
The secret sauce of Aquaponics is, of course, the billions of nitrifying bacteria. These little guys consume the fish waste and turn it into plant food. However they also naturally give off a small quantity of nitric acid as a part of the process, and acid will bring your pH down. This actually is really useful for plant growth and is not normally something to be scared of. A slowly dropping pH is fine in a large system that has plenty of water to dilute the acid. The large volume will ‘self regulate’ and cause pH movements to happen gradually. This will not stress the fish and can be monitored loosely. If you have a system with only a small volume of water, (such as one based on a common fish tank), pH can fall rapidly enough that if you miss a day or two of checking it your fish may be hurting. You will need to check pH daily and probably make regular adjustments. If you go away for a weekend, you might leave your windowsill system with a pH of 8.0 and return to find it with a pH of 6.0 or less, especially when your system is less than 6 months old and still finding it’s equilibrium. This can be a real concern for fish happiness. If pH gets low enough it can also reduce the effectiveness of your bacteria in processing fish waste, leading to other problems. In small Aquaponics systems, bacteria induced pH drops happen faster than in large systems.
- See more at: http://blog.grovelabs.io/designing-ecosystems/aquaponics-designing-ecosystems/7-challenges-small-scale-aquaponics-systems/#sthash.QN4Hg6C5.dpuf

The main ‘problems’ with small-scale Aquaponics are only problems if you are afraid of a little maintenance. This can all be greatly reduced with the clever use of automation and monitoring technologies that are currently being developed by the industry leaders of indoor growing (cough). Nonetheless, you should be aware of what you are getting into. Here are my top seven unexpected challenges with small-scale Aquaponics.
1.   pH Drops Faster
The secret sauce of Aquaponics is, of course, the billions of nitrifying bacteria. These little guys consume the fish waste and turn it into plant food. However they also naturally give off a small quantity of nitric acid as a part of the process, and acid will bring your pH down. This actually is really useful for plant growth and is not normally something to be scared of. A slowly dropping pH is fine in a large system that has plenty of water to dilute the acid. The large volume will ‘self regulate’ and cause pH movements to happen gradually. This will not stress the fish and can be monitored loosely. If you have a system with only a small volume of water, (such as one based on a common fish tank), pH can fall rapidly enough that if you miss a day or two of checking it your fish may be hurting. You will need to check pH daily and probably make regular adjustments. If you go away for a weekend, you might leave your windowsill system with a pH of 8.0 and return to find it with a pH of 6.0 or less, especially when your system is less than 6 months old and still finding it’s equilibrium. This can be a real concern for fish happiness. If pH gets low enough it can also reduce the effectiveness of your bacteria in processing fish waste, leading to other problems. In small Aquaponics systems, bacteria induced pH drops happen faster than in large systems.
- See more at: http://blog.grovelabs.io/designing-ecosystems/aquaponics-designing-ecosystems/7-challenges-small-scale-aquaponics-systems/#sthash.QN4Hg6C5.dpuf

The main ‘problems’ with small-scale Aquaponics are only problems if you are afraid of a little maintenance. This can all be greatly reduced with the clever use of automation and monitoring technologies that are currently being developed by the industry leaders of indoor growing (cough). Nonetheless, you should be aware of what you are getting into. Here are my top seven unexpected challenges with small-scale Aquaponics.
1.   pH Drops Faster
The secret sauce of Aquaponics is, of course, the billions of nitrifying bacteria. These little guys consume the fish waste and turn it into plant food. However they also naturally give off a small quantity of nitric acid as a part of the process, and acid will bring your pH down. This actually is really useful for plant growth and is not normally something to be scared of. A slowly dropping pH is fine in a large system that has plenty of water to dilute the acid. The large volume will ‘self regulate’ and cause pH movements to happen gradually. This will not stress the fish and can be monitored loosely. If you have a system with only a small volume of water, (such as one based on a common fish tank), pH can fall rapidly enough that if you miss a day or two of checking it your fish may be hurting. You will need to check pH daily and probably make regular adjustments. If you go away for a weekend, you might leave your windowsill system with a pH of 8.0 and return to find it with a pH of 6.0 or less, especially when your system is less than 6 months old and still finding it’s equilibrium. This can be a real concern for fish happiness. If pH gets low enough it can also reduce the effectiveness of your bacteria in processing fish waste, leading to other problems. In small Aquaponics systems, bacteria induced pH drops happen faster than in large systems.
- See more at: http://blog.grovelabs.io/designing-ecosystems/aquaponics-designing-ecosystems/7-challenges-small-scale-aquaponics-systems/#sthash.QN4Hg6C5.dpuf

A Small, Green Food Machine

Imagine if you could produce your own fresh food in a small space and do it in an environmentally friendly and inexpensive way. Using aquaponics (a combination of aquaculture and hydroponics), you can!

The system is simple. Fish are kept in a tank with grow beds elevated around them. Water from the fish is used to irrigate and fertilize the plants. The root systems of the plants and the growing medium remove nitrates from the water to use as food. The water is returned by gravity to the fish tank, aerating the water as it falls into the tank. This is a closed system that conserves water, is organic, and closely mimics a natural ecosystem.

There are many ways to practice aquaponics, from small home aquarium tanks with a few salad greens growing in the inverted lid to warehouse-sized commercial operations. My family and I built a small system from all found and recycled materials. It is watered by hand (thirty minutes labor per day) so it does not use electricity. It takes up about one-and-a-half square meters of space.

The idea for this system came to me after some repairs had been done on the highway near where we live in rural Thailand. The road crews had left behind a broken piece of culvert and a small pile of pea gravel. So I thought, “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle!” I knew that the culvert could be used as a fish tank with a little cement work, so we carted it and the gravel home.

The first step was to create a base for the tank using chicken wire and cement left over from a previous project. The tank was placed on the base and sealed in place. Then the tank was then filled with water from our well. If you use chlorinated city water, remember to wait a week or so before putting fish in the system, in order to allow the chlorine time to dissipate.

Tilapia fry from one of our aquaculture tanks were placed in the tank and began the process of fertilizing the water. The only input into this aquaponic system is food for the fish. If you use an omnivorous fish like tilapia, all of their food can be grown for them. Duckweed is an excellent complete diet for tilapia.

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Our “free” aquaponics system has been providing us with fresh greens and fish for six months now and will keep doing so for the foreseeable future.

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For the planters, we collected used plastic containers from our village school and clinic. The tops were cut off and the containers washed very thoroughly three times. Then a hole was made in the side of each container’s base using an awl. This is to allow water to drain back to the tank. On the opposite side of the containers, near the top, a hole was punched to allow two containers to be connected using string. Doing this increases the number of containers that you will be able to fit on your shelf.

The plastic containers were filled with a mix of coconut fiber and rice husk because those are materials readily available for free where I live. If you use coconut product, you need to use chips and fiber, not the powdered coir soil amendment. If you are not sure of the source, it should be soaked and rinsed very well as it may have a high salt content. Coco chips are excellent in a hand powered aquaponic or hydroponic system, as they retain moisture very well while still having adequate air spaces for the plant roots.

An old board (see photo above right) from our farm’s plant nursery was given new life as the shelf for the containers. It is more common in aquaponics to use large growing beds but we were going with what we had or could source for Seeds were planted and gravel was placed on top to prevent the contents from floating out of the container when flooded during watering. Seedlings grown using hydroponic media could also be used instead of seeds.

The containers were placed on the board so that their drainage holes allow water to fall back into the tank. The containers were flooded with water from the tank using a watering can without its “showerhead”. (See photos, right)

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Aquaponics meets all of the criteria for sustainable agriculture. It is environmentally sound, has minimum inputs, eliminates the solid waste disposal required by intensive aquaculture, and is socially responsible and economically viable.

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Our “free” aquaponics system has been providing us with fresh greens and fish for six months now and will keep doing so for the foreseeable future.

Aquaponics meets all of the criteria for sustainable agriculture. It is environmentally sound, has minimum inputs, eliminates the solid waste disposal required by intensive aquaculture, and is socially responsible and economically viable.

Aquaponics provides you with an environmentally friendly way to raise fish and plants in a confined space. A hand powered system uses no electricity and minimal water. All fertilizer is provided organically by the fish. A system like this is also very helpful in teaching children how an integrated ecosystem (Planet Earth!) functions.

I find watching the fish and tending the plants very relaxing. I also love to eat the fresh produce and fillets that the system produces. Aquaponics is a sustainable, eco-friendly food production system that is in use from Antarctica to the Arctic circle and from the deserts of Arabia to the jungles of Thailand. If you have been thinking of producing more of your own food, aquaponics is one good way to go about it. This is truly the future of food production!

How to Build an Aquaponics System

You can save money and provide your family with amazingly nutritious food by building your own aquaponics system, and in this article I will show you how to get started.

First I will explain why I think it’s important to take the time to understand and build a DIY system. Then we’ll explore the basic design concept of any system and how to expand on that and implement it for your specific needs.

And of course I will also go over the components and materials needed, and where to get them.

Next up we’ll tackle the issue of the size and location of your garden, and to finish it off I will provide further resources for detailed DIY plans if you feel like you still need additional help with setting up and operating your aquaponics system.

I hope you find this guide helpful and easy to follow. If you have any question please don’t hesitate to get in touch. Also please make sure you bookmark this, and share it with your friends if you like!

Remember: With a little bit of determination, anyone can do this!

So without further Ado, Let’s get started…

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Why Build Your Own System?

So why should you DIY (do it yourself) and not simply buy a pre-built one? A pre-built solution can be an excellent option, in fact you can click here to check out some great ready-made systems that I highly recommend. However there are some distinct advantages to rolling up your sleeves and taking things into your own hands…

1. Cost
2. Knowledge
3. Satisfaction

Cost

For many people cost is going to be a concern and this is one of the primary advantages to going the DIY route: you gain considerable savings by taking things into your own hands. Depending on the scope of your plans you can save 50 to 75% or even more if you get really creative & resourceful with your supplies and materials.

Knowledge

This is my favorite reason for taking this route: the knowledge you gain is invaluable…

By planning & designing a system and putting it together yourself, you end up re-enforcing a solid understanding of how an aquaponics system works. And this allows you to take true ownership of your system and its operation. This means that any future work will be a snap because you know your setup intimately and making additions, changes, or repairs will be second nature.

Sweet Satisfaction

And last but not least, there’s that sweet satisfaction of a job well done. If you’re anything like me then you revel in the feeling of successfully completing a project started from scratch and followed all the way through. Especially one that will provide an abundant supply of healthy organic food for you and your family for years to come.

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Basic System Design

Before moving on to more intricate designs and layouts it helps to visualize an aquaponics system in its most basic configuration.

If you look at the diagram below you can see that I’ve labeled the primary components of any system. How you decide to arrange them, what size they will be, and where you will set them up will vary from system to system of course.

As you can see, the core concept is extremely simple.

• Water flows from the fish tank (A) to the garden (B). And then from (B) back to (A) again.
• The secondary components (c, d, & e) facilitate the movement and distribution of water between the two primary components.

This. In its most basic sense, is all an aquaponics system is. And although you might feel that this is too simple, remember that you can expand on this core design and implement it for your specific needs in an almost infinite variety of ways.

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Components & Materials

There are varying degrees of size and complexity when it comes to designing and constructing your aquaponics garden, but there are some common components of any system, and it helps to understand what they are and how they work.

Main Components

• Fish Tank: This is the main tank in which you raise and feed your fish. The waste from here accumulates and is pumped into the garden where it nourishes your plants and helps them to grow.
• Garden: This is where you grow your plants. It has its own watering system which is provided with water & nutrients from the fish tank and there are different strategies for how to set this up. For instance you can use media filled beds which receive a continuous flow of water, a flood and drain system, or even a deep water culture system which allows the plants to simply soak their roots directly in the water below.
• Sump Tank: This is the lowest point in an aquapotics system, and it’s where the water is collected from the garden before it returns to the fish tank. This is a non essential component but using one comes with some advantages. Not only does it allow you to maintain a constant water level in your fish tank, but it allows you to easily remove collected and unwanted waste before sending that water back to the fish tank. Your pump also operates much better with cleaner water, so this ensures that your fish tank pumps water to your garden at a consistent rate.
• Pump: This is the workhorse of your system, it moves and directs the flow of water from each area of your aquaponics garden to the next.

Additional Components

• Plant Trays
• Media
• Timers
• Air Pumps
• Tubing
• Filters
• Plants


• Fish

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Size & Location

There are Many Possibilities for Where to Locate Your System – KanuHawaii

One of my favorite things about aquaponics is that you can setup a system of almost any size, either indoors or outdoors. From a mini garden with gold fish growing vegetables and herbs, to a large backyard farm, or even massive commercial operations.

Indoors

The key thing to keep in mind when growing indoors is that you need to choose an area that receives at least 4 to 6 hours of sunlight per day, this is the minimum required for most plants to grow properly. With that said, any place in your home that meets the minimum requirements for sunlight is perfect for setting up a small aquaponics system. And of course you can always use a hydroponic grow light if getting adequate sunlight is a problem.

Common Indoor Locations

• Front Room
• Kitchen
• Basement
• Spare Room
• Garage

Outdoors

When it comes to outdoor growing, the logical solution for most people is their backyard. Not only does this give you privacy and security, but it also provides adequate space for any future expansion. It is not uncommon however to see people with systems at the side of their house or even in their front yard. A lot of it dependson where you can get the right amount of sunlight for your garden.

Common Outdoor Locations

• Backyard
• Balcony, Porch, or Veranda
• Side or Front of House

The possibilities for the size and location of your setup are endless. Small, big, indoors or outdoors… Whatever your current situation, you can definitely get your own aquaponics system up and running!

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Get DIY Plans (Further Resources)

If you’re ready to get started then I highly recommend you choose a step-by-step guide or course to help you.

There are some excellent online video courses which will ensure the success of your project and make the process easy, smooth, and fun. In my opinion this is the best way to build your DIY system. Websites & Books are great, but nothing beats high quality step-by-step video instruction.

Small Aquaponics

Hydroponics Makes Perfect Salad Sense

Of all the vegetables that can be grown in a soilless environment, hydroponic lettuce is the easiest. It will take about 35 days for most Bibb-type lettuce to go from seed to your table. There are many types of leaf and Bibb lettuce varieties from which to choose. With the addition of a few other vegetables, you can have fresh, tasty salads every day of the year.

Platform Growing

Lettuce is a plant that requires little root space. The short leaves require minimal support. These traits allow you to use a platform system of hydroponic gardening to grow lettuce. The raft will gently hold the plants while floating freely in the continuously recycled nutrient enriched water. A small oxygen pump will keep the water from becoming stagnant.

Traditional Hydroponic Gardens

Hydroponic lettuce can be placed around the edge of most soilless gardens. In fact, hydroponic gardens that use fine gravel or sand as a growing medium are great for growing lettuce. Placing lettuce around the outer edge of these types of systems will give your water garden a thick lush appearance. If you stagger the planting times of your lettuce, you can enjoy fresh lettuce every day.

Bibb Lettuce Varieties

Bibb lettuce form soft heads that peel apart easily. Some of the more flavorful types are the European Butter Crunch and the red curly varieties including Red Sails, Brunia and Ruby. Romaine lettuce grows well in hydroponic gardens as does Dano, Freckles Red and Berenice Green.

Leaf Lettuce Varieties

Leaf lettuce is a popular variety both in the hydroponic and conventional garden. These types of lettuce make tasty salads and are wonderful to use on sandwiches because the leaves lay flat. Some leaf lettuce varieties are colorful, streaked with red and purple. The European varieties are more suitable for hydroponic lettuces because they tend to bolt less due to temperature controls. Salina and Rex Lettuces are even less susceptible to bolting. Ostinata and Salina grow well, but do not tolerate high temperatures.

Common Problems

Both leaf and Bibb lettuce like a cooler growing temperature. Conventional gardeners usually plant these types of crops early and late in the growing season avoiding mid-summer high temperatures. By growing hydroponic lettuce the temperature, amount of daylight and humidity is controlled.
Tip burn is caused by water loss due to high humidity. Controlling temperatures using circulating air will prevent this problem.
Pests can invade the hydroponic garden as easily as they do in a conventional garden. Daily inspection of your hydroponic garden will ensure quick treatment for pests like whiteflies, thrips, and butterfly or moth larvae.

Hydroponic lettuce is an easy way to learn the art of hydroponic gardening. A container that is 14 inches tall, 12 inches deep and 20 inches wide will be large enough for eight lettuce plants. Exploring how to grow vegetables using hydroponics is easy when you start by growing lettuce.

Pest Problems?

Identify your pest

Aphids

Aphids, generally known as Greenfly and Blackfly are small soft-bodied sap sucking insects. They are probably the most commonly known group of plant pests, infesting almost all types of plants, shrubs and trees.

There are many species of aphids worldwide. Generally, they feed in colonies and can be recognised by their plump pear-shaped bodies and two tubes, that project from the rear of their abdomens.

Aphids are usually found feeding on the young leaves, new shoots and flower buds where the plant cells are more pliable and high in nitrogen. They push their long piercing mouth parts deep into the plant tissue and suck up the plant sap. They excrete excess sap and sugars as sticky honeydew, which can then promote the growth of sooty moulds and fungi on the infested plants. However, ants are usually attracted to honeydew where they harvest the droplets and therefore reduce sooty mould problems.

Whilst feeding, many aphid species can also acquire and spread plant viruses. Heavy infestations can also weaken plants and cause leaf curling and even plant death. When aphid infestations become large, the colony produces winged adults, which then disperse to new plants and establish new colonies.

During the warmer months, the wingless adult female aphids produce 50 to 100 young clones at a rate of up to 5 young per day without having to mate. Young aphids are born live and can start reproducing within just 1 week. Only in the autumn and early winter months will most aphid species produce males. These mate with the females who then produce fertile eggs that over-winter. Because of the extremely fast reproduction rate of aphids during the growing season, it is often difficult to determine the effectiveness of crop protection products. Even when just 5% of aphids survive an insecticide the infestation could return to its original level in a few days.

Using SB Plant Invigorator to control aphids:

Independent research studies have shown that SBPI can be highly effective at controlling aphids if used correctly.

SBPI will produce a significant reduction in aphid numbers if applied thoroughly (to upper and lower leaf surfaces) and to the point, it runs off the leaves. However, certain aphid species are more easily controlled than others are.

Studies have shown that almost total control of many important aphid species can be achieved with just one or two thorough application of SBPI, depending on the severity of the infestation. This includes Pea aphids [Acyrthosiphon pisum], Bean aphid [Aphis fabae], Apple Grain aphid [Rhopalosiphum padi] and Woolly Apple aphid [Erisoma lanigerum]. However, the extremely fast reproduction rate of any surviving aphids could rapidly restore the infestation to original levels if further applications of SBPI are not made at regular intervals. Weekly applications to susceptible plants are recommended.

The Peach potato aphid [Myzus persicae], is a more robust aphid than many of the other species and consequently is more difficult to control by physical means. However, SBPI will control established infestations of the Peach potato aphid after 2 or 3 applications at 2 or 3 day intervals. Weekly applications can then be used to maintain control.

If necessary, a x2 recommended dose rate of SBPI could also be used for rapid control of the Peach potato aphid. However it is advisable to first test delicate plants for phytotoxic response to a higher rate.

SBPI does not affect aphids in the final stage of parasite development (mummies), so it can be used in conjunction with an IPM system using parasitic wasps.

Spraying as often as weekly may seem excessive but please remember SBPI provides a foliar feed, comprehensive pesticide and mildewcide all at the same time.

Most people who use SBPI weekly rarely have to use other products. Resistance to SBPI will not occur due to its physical mode of action.

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Bay Suckers

The Bay Sucker (Trioza alacris) is a sap sucking insect belonging to the Psyllid family, commonly known as jumping plant lice. A large number of Psyllid species are associated with just one plant species and the Bay Sucker is no exception. This pest only feeds on bay trees causing the leaves to curl at the edges and become yellow and thickened. These damaged leaves can then turn brown and fall off the tree.

Adult Bay Suckers are winged and about 2mm in length. They are pale brown in colour and emerge from hibernation in late spring. They feed on the edges of bay leaves, causing them to curl along the edges.

Eggs are then laid within the curls. The eggs emerge as small scale-like larvae that secrete copious amounts of white wax from their bodies (Figs. 1 and 2). Whilst the larvae feed and grow, the infested leaves become more curled and deformed. Honeydew is also excreted by the larvae which not only makes the plant sticky, but encourages the growth of sooty moulds.

Using SB Plant Invigorator to control Bay Sucker:

Independent research studies have shown that SBPI can be highly effective at controlling the Bay Sucker (Trioza alacris) if used correctly.

A thorough application of SBPI applied in to the leaf curls and to the point it runs off the plant is required. This initial application should be followed by a similar application one or two days later to control an established infestation of Bay Sucker.

The initial application will remove the protective wax from the larvae and the second application should effectively kill them.

Eggs are more difficult to control with SBPI so further regular applications of SBPI at weekly or fortnightly intervals are recommended to ensure the infestation is fully eradicated. Continued regular use of SBPI should protect plants from further infestations.

Spraying as often as weekly may seem excessive but please remember SBPI provides a foliar feed, comprehensive pesticide and mildewcide all at the same time.

Most people who use SBPI weekly rarely have to use other products. Resistance to SBPI will not occur due to its physical mode of action.

Mealy Bug

Mealybug is the common name given to insects of the Pseudococcidae family. There are many different species of mealybug, all of which are un-armoured scale insects that feed on plant sap. Most inhabit plants that grow in moist, warm climates. Many greenhouse crops are susceptible to mealybug infestation where the protected environment is often perfect for their survival. Indoor plants, cacti and succulent plants are also favoured hosts for mealybug.

Mealybug infestations are often recognised as fluffy white growths around leaf axils on plants. This is actually wax that the adult females secrete around themselves to hide within and protect their egg masses. Eggs hatch into tiny orange-coloured larvae that rapidly migrate from the egg masses to new locations and plants. Male mealybug are very different in appearance to the females as they are much smaller, have wings and resemble tiny dark-coloured wasps.

Heavy infestations of mealybug often lead to honeydew contamination of the host plant, which not only makes the plant sticky but also encourages the growth of sooty moulds. This can also lead to leaf drop and even plant death.

Using SB Plant Invigorator to control mealybug:

Independent research studies have shown that SBPI can be highly effective at controlling common mealybug species such as the Citrus mealybug (Planococcus citri) and the Glasshouse mealybug Pseudococcus viburni, if used correctly.

A thorough application (to upper and lower leaf surfaces) of SBPI applied to the point it runs off the plant, followed by a similar application one day later will be required to control an established infestation of mealybug.

The initial application will remove the protective wax from the adults and the second application one day later should effectively kill them.

Eggs and the small mobile juveniles are more difficult to control with SBPI so further regular applications of SBPI at weekly or fortnightly intervals are recommended to ensure the infestation is fully eradicated.

Continued regular use of SBPI will protect plants from further established mealybug infestations.

Spraying as often as weekly may seem excessive but please remember SBPI provides a foliar feed, comprehensive pesticide and mildewcide all at the same time. Most people who use SBPI weekly rarely have to use other products. Resistance to SBPI will not occur due to its physical mode of action.

Scale Insects

There are many different species of Scale insects which can be divided into two different families; The Soft Scales (Coccidae) and the Hard Scales (Diaspididae). Scale insects often look like small bumps on the stems and under the leaves of the many plant, shrub and tree species that they can infest. Adult female scale insects cannot move, so they remain on their host plants, protected by a waxy shield that they produce. They feed on plant sap yet generally it is only the soft scales that produce honeydew and cause sooty moulds. Soft scales cannot be detached from their shields, whereas hard scales can. Depending on the species, female scale insects can lay between 250 and 2000 eggs or live young underneath their shields. The females then die, allowing the young to develop whilst protected beneath the shield. When ready, the young move to find a suitable place on the plant where they can plug their feeding tubes in and feed on the sap. They then shed their skin and lose mobility.

Using SB Plant Invigorator to control Scale Insects:

Independent research studies have shown that SBPI can be highly effective at controlling Scale insects if used correctly.

A thorough application of SBPI applied to the infested areas and to the point it runs off the plant is required.

Eggs and the small mobile juveniles that remain underneath the parental shield can be more difficult to control with SBPI so further regular applications at weekly or fortnightly intervals are recommended to ensure the infestation is fully eradicated.

Continued regular use of SBPI will protect plants from further scale infestations.

Spraying as often as weekly may seem excessive but please remember SBPI provides a foliar feed, comprehensive pesticide and mildewcide all at the same time.

Most people who use SBPI weekly rarely have to use other products. Resistance to SBPI will not occur due to its physical mode of action.

Spidermite

Spider mites are tiny arachnids belonging to a group known as the Acarina. Although they belong to the same order as common spiders, there are distinct morphological differences. Their bodies, for example, are small and bloated and are not divided into sections like true spiders. Also, their juvenile stages only have 3 pairs of legs whilst the adults have four.

The most common spider mite pest, affecting a wide range of glasshouse, indoor and garden plants, is the Two Spotted Red Spider Mite or Glasshouse Red Spider Mite (Tetranychus urticae). Despite its name, it is only red in colour during its inactive stage through the autumn and winter seasons. During the spring and summer seasons, it is usually a pale green colour with two distinct darker spots on its back. The first signs of a spider mite infestation are usually the appearance of small pale spots on the leaf surface. This gradually becomes more intense leading to a pale mottling effect across the whole leaf surface as the mite numbers increase and they suck dry the contents of the leaf cells. If left untreated, a spider mite infestation continues to increase and infested plants become covered in fine silk webbing, particularly around the new growth regions. Within this webbing, the spider mites are protected from many types of topical insecticides and the leaves become covered with their tiny spherical eggs. At this level of infestation, the plant will soon lose its green colour and begin losing leaves. It may eventually die.

Here at Growth Technology we must recommend Spider Mite Control and SMC+ solutions as well as the New (Nov.14) Ready mixed versions.

Spider mites are a real hassle for growers. Spidermite Control is a great product to resolve this problem. The mechanical action of the product suffocates the mites with an ultra-thin film of special oil. Completely safe for humans, safe for plants – Deadly for Spidermites!

SMC+ is a broader spectrum pest control product developed to target multiple pests. Including White Fly as well as Spidermites.

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Using SB Plant Invigorator to control spider mites:

Controlling spider mites is not always as easy as controlling other plant pests, especially when infestations have become established and protected by heavy webbing. However, independent research studies have shown that SBPI can be highly effective at controlling spider mites if used correctly.

If a spider mite infestation is found during the early stages, before webbing has become intense, then a thorough application (to upper and lower leaf surfaces) of SBPI applied to the point it runs off the plants will control the problem. However, a few re-applications at weekly intervals will be required since spider mite eggs are not affected and the product does not have residual activity.

An established spider mite infestation, can also be controlled by SBPI although 2 or 3 applications will be required at 2 or 3 day intervals. This will overcome the protective webbing and access the mites within. Weekly applications will then ensure newly hatched juveniles and adults that may have crawled on to the plant from elsewhere continue to be controlled.

Although the leaves from a heavily infested plant will not recover from the spider mite damage, any new leaf growth will be healthy and very likely, the plant will recover.

Spraying as often as weekly may seem excessive but please remember SBPI provides a foliar feed, comprehensive pesticide and mildewcide all at the same time.

Most growers using SBPI weekly rarely use other products. Resistance to SBPI will not occur due to its physical mode of action.

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Whiteflies

Adult whiteflies are small, flying insect pests that resemble tiny white moths. They are usually about 1 or 2 millimetres in length and can be found feeding and laying eggs on the younger leaves of many different plant species including tomatoes and cucumbers. Whitefly feed on plant sap through a long tube-like mouth piece. Excess sap and waste products are excreted as honeydew, on to the plant leaves. Honeydew contains sugars which soon become contaminated with black sooty moulds that grow over the leaves producing unhealthy and unsightly plants. The larvae of whitefly are often confused with scale insects since they look very similar. Once they hatch from the eggs they crawl across the leaves to find a suitable place to feed then shed their skins. During this skin shed, the larvae lose their legs and remain motionless, feeding on plant sap for around 4 weeks. During this time the infested plant continues to grow, resulting in the larvae being found on the older, lower leaves of a plant by the time they are ready to pupate.

The most common and perhaps the most difficult whitefly species to control around the world are the Glasshouse Whitefly (Trialeurodes vaporariorum) and the Tobacco Whitefly (Bemisia tabaci), although the Tobacco whitefly is only found in the warmer regions of the world. Both of these whiteflies can transmit plant viruses. Other whitefly species that can be a problem include the Strawberry whitefly, the Cabbage whitefly, the Vibernum whitefly, the Citrus whitefly and the Spiralling whitefly. There are many systemic and contact insecticide on the market to deal with whitefly, we recommend SB Plant Invigorator because:

• It is highly effective at controlling whitefly
• It is non toxic and suitable for use throughout the year
• There is no harvest interval and the product is very safe
• Resistance to SBPI will not occur due to its physical mode of action.

Using SB Plant Invigorator (SBPI) to control whiteflies:

Independent research studies have shown that SBPI is highly effective at controlling whiteflies if used correctly.

Almost total control of adult whiteflies can be achieved after just one application of SBPI if the infested leaves are treated thoroughly. The treatment also needs to be applied to the point it runs off the leaves. SBPI causes adult whiteflies to stick to leaves and other surfaces that they land on, although the plants and treated surfaces do not become sticky themselves. When the treatment has dried, the affected whiteflies remain stuck and die.

The larval stages of whiteflies are also controlled by SBPI but in a different way to the adults. Again, a thorough application of the product to the infested areas of the plant is essential since only the larvae that are treated with SBPI will be controlled.

 It is often the case that whitefly pupae and eggs are harder to control compared to the other life stages. This is also the case with SBPI. So, to ensure that effective and sustained whitefly control is achieved, re-applications of SBPI are recommended at weekly or fortnightly intervals. This will not only ensure that newly hatched adults and larvae are controlled, but also any new whiteflies that may have flown on to the plants.

SBPI does not affect whitefly pupae or friendly parasitic wasps.

What is pH?

The two most important factors in water and nutrient management are pH and conductivity, and a good understanding and command of these variables is essential for successful hydroponic gardening.
pH is the measure of acidity or alkalinity of an aqueous solution.  If a solution is acidic then it has a pH in the range of 0 to 6.9.  If a solution is alkaline then it has a pH in the range of 7.1 to 14.  Pure water or deionised water is neutral at pH 7.0.  The ideal pH for most hydroponic gardening applications is between 5.8 and 6.2, except for Rockwool cultivation, which likes a slightly lower pH of about 5.5.

LEARN MORE: pH is the measure of acidity or alkalinity of an aqueous solution.  The term pH refers to the potential hydrogen/hydroxyl ion content of a solution.  Solutions ionise into positive and negative ions.  If a solution has more hydrogen (positive) ions than hydroxyl (negative) ions then it is acidic and has a pH in the range of 0 to 6.9.  Alternatively, if a solution has more hydroxyl (negative) ions than hydrogen (positive) ions then it is alkaline with a pH in the range of 7.1 to 14.  Pure water and deionised water has a balance of hydrogen (H+) and hydroxyl (OH-) ions, and is therefore pH neutral (pH 7).

Why is pH important?

If the pH of a solution is not within the correct range the plant will not have the ability to absorb some of the essential elements required for proper plant growth.  All plants have a particular pH range, which will produce healthy growth, and this level will vary from plant to plant, but most plants prefer a slightly acidic growing environment (5.8 to 6.2), although most plants can survive in an environment with pH values between 5.0 and 7.0.
Plants grown in acidic environments can experience a variety of symptoms, including aluminium (Al), hydrogen (H), and/or manganese (Mn) toxicity, as well as nutrient deficiencies of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg).
Conversely, in alkaline environments molybdenum (Mo) and macronutrients (except for phosphorus) availability increases, but phosphorus (P), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu) and cobalt (Co) levels are reduced, and may adversely affect plant growth.
From the chart you can see that each element can become more and less available to the plants as pH changes.  If the pH of your solution is out of the desired range, one or more of the essential elements will become unavailable to the plant, causing nutrient deficiencies, which will result in slow growth rates, and poor yields.

How to measure your pH?

There are a few ways to check the pH of your nutrient solution, such as paper test strips, liquid pH test kits, and digital pH meters.  The paper test strips are impregnated with pH sensitive dyes, which change colour when dipped into the nutrient solution.  The paper strip is then compared against a colour chart to determine the pH of the solution being checked.  The liquid pH kits work by adding a few drops of pH sensitive dye into a small amount of the nutrient solution and then the colour of the resulting liquid is compared against a colour chart.

The most high-tech method of checking the pH is with a digital meter.  All you have to do is dip the meter/electrode into the nutrient solution for a few moments and the pH value is shown on an LCD display.  The pH meters are fast and very accurate when properly calibrated.  These meters need to be cared for properly or they will no longer function.  The glass bulb electrode needs to be kept clean, and some are required to be kept wet at all times.  pH meters also need to be checked and calibrated frequently to insure accuracy.

Adjusting your pH level

Passive Hydroponics

Passive hydroponic systems consist of growing in containers or pots filled with a medium, such as Soil, Coco, Perlite, Vermiculite, Rockwool Cubes, or hand-watering Rockwool Slabs.

Usually for this type of cultivation we would recommend that the grower makes up one large container of nutrient at a time. A 200 litre plastic drum is an ideal container. Once this is made up to the correct ‘strength’ (conductivity), the pH can be checked and adjusted to the ideal level of 5.8-6.2. A careful note should be made of the exact amount of pH UP or pH DOWN that is added at this time. In future, this amount can be added as a routine when making up solutions, and pH should remain pretty constant from batch to batch, although spot checks are recommended from time to time. Ideally you should use a meter, for example, BlueLab pH pen. The nutrient solution in the tank should remain stable and can be applied to plants as needed.
Active Hydroponics
Active hydroponic systems are ones in which the nutrient solution is supplied to the plants by a pump system. These systems include NFT, Flood & Drain, Aeroponics, and DWC Systems. In most systems the nutrient solution is re-circulated to the roots continually over a period of time.
In an active system the pH will need checking and adjusting in the main tank on a regular basis. In most systems fresh water is added to the tank to replace that used by the plants. The incoming water is usually of a higher pH than the nutrient solution, so there tends to be an upward drift in pH. This can be corrected by the regular addition of small amounts of pH DOWN. This process of pH control can be carried out with pH kit but as it needs doing often in this system, the busy grower would be better off using a meter.

pH AND HARD WATER

Hard water is characterized by high levels of bicarbonates and it makes itself known by depositing lime scale in kettles and by reducing the lathering ability of soap.  Hard water will usually have a high pH but not necessarily.  What will distinguish hard water is that it will take much more acid to reduce the pH than with an equivalent sample of softer water.  This is because the bicarbonates have to be neutralized and this uses up quite a lot of acid.  The obvious problem for the grower is that he will be adding quite large amounts of acid on a regular basis.  If he is using phosphoric acid this may lead to a build up of phosphate in the nutrient tank over time.  High levels of phosphate in the solution can inhibit the uptake of other elements, zinc for instance, and cause general nutrient imbalance.
Fortunately, properly formulated ‘Hard Water’ nutrient solutions, such as Ionic HW are designed to address this problem.  Conversely you could use a reverse osmosis system to filter your water, and then use the ‘regular’ soft water nutrients.

Health and Safety: 

pH control chemicals are highly toxic and aggressive liquids. Please follow these simple guidelines for safety and peace of mind.

1. ALWAYS store these materials in a safe place, preferably in a locked cupboard. Always keep them out of reach of children. 
2. ALWAYS wear rubber gloves and protective goggles when handling any aggressive chemicals.
3. ALWAYS dilute pH control solutions before use.